4/7/2010If you’re like me, you’ve probably not given data encryption on your home PC a second thought. Sure, most employers use some form of data encryption or another for our corporate laptops, but at home it’s a totally different story. I’m in the process of evaluating my server hardware at home, the topic of encryption came back up. The problem with encryption is that it’s a pain to implement and use. If you’re doing file level encryption, you have to remember to encrypt your files or you have to remember to save your files in an encrypted folder. That sounds too much like work, so most of us just won’t even bother. The other alternative is to have whole disk encryption. The down side to that is that it adds a software abstraction layer between the hardware and operating system which takes CPU cycles to process thus taking away from your system horsepower… i.e. it slows the computer down. Now if it’s implemented in conjunction with a hardware upgrade, you may not notice it and it might be OK. Mostly though, it’s not. Nobody wants to give up CPU cycles. The only true solution is actual hardware based encryption. Something that can encrypt the data on the fly as it’s being written to the disk, but without taking any of your CPU cycles for it. It must read, write, cache and encrypt completely self sufficient. Enter Addonics with their new Dual CipherChain (CCM35MK2). This little beauty lives in one of your 5.25” drive bays and configuration is dead simple. Connect your SATA drives (it supports two), to the card. Connect the output port of the card to the motherboard. Insert the encryption keys and you’re good to go! The device provides real time 256-bit AES encryption and at just over $150, it’s a small price to pay for the safety of your data. I’ll report back in the future on my experience with this device. Later C Technorati Tags: Hardware, Gadgets 3/18/2010I touted my love for my DROBO NAS device about 40 months ago. I love the device’s simplicity in upgrading drives and space over time. Though it’s an awesome little gadget, it certainly isn’t perfect. I found that the ventilation system built in wasn’t nearly sufficient for the three stacked (closely together) 7,200 RPM Western Digital RE2 HDDs that was occupying it’s bays. I solved it by literally cutting a hole in the front faceplate and mounting a push fan to it to help force airflow over the drives. I’ve always been looking for a true NAS device that I can just plug into my network and map on my computers. I’ve also been wondering why all NAS devices use 3.5” HDDs when the laptop 2.5” HDDs have come down in price so much recently. Additionally, the smaller drives are also designed for smaller spaces with less ventilation… i.e. they’re designed for minimal residual heat production. So why not use those kind of drives instead? OK, OK, I hear the choir already… but, but, but… PERFORMANCE!!! Yes, it is true that the 3.5” HDDs has better performance than the 2.5” HDDs so if I was going to put the drive into my server or a desktop, then I’d certainly opt for the bigger form factor, but let’s be serious… this is going inside a NAS device. A device that is being read from via a common ethernet NIC port which, even with Gigabit speeds, is certainly NOT going to be waiting on the drive to read the data. Well, Thecus just released their N0503 ComboNAS. This little beauty, priced at $400 ( that’s Apple prices!) it’s a little expensive, but here’s what makes it stand out for me is the fact that it can hold 5 (that’s right FIVE!) HDDs, 2.5” laptop HDDs! Given 1 TB sizes for these drives now, that’s up to 5 TB of storage. Of course, if you insist, you can always go the 3.5” HDD route and plug 3 of those monsters in. With 2 TB sizes there, that’ll give you up to 6 GB of space! Add the two gigabit ethernet NICs and you have the ability to connect it to two distinct networks. At my house, I run an internal and a guest network. All my computers run on the internal network and all my friends and family that visit, gets to use my guest network. Both completely separated with unique IP ranges and all. This baby can plug into both and be used from either network. Sweet! Throw in the device’s support for RAID 5 with Auto Rebuild, Hot Swap and Hot Spare and it becomes something special. With RAID 5 and hot spare (only available on the 2.5” option), it truly becomes self sustaining. All you’d ever have to do is change a dead drive when it fails every so often. | | 2.5” HDDs | 3.5” HDDs | | Drives | 5 | 3 | | RAID 5 | Yes | Yes | | Hot Swap | Yes | Yes | | Auto Rebuild | Yes | Yes | | Hot Spare | Yes | No | | Space | 1 TB/drive | 2 TB/drive | | Total Space | 5 TB | 6 TB | | Total RAID 5 Space | 4 TB | 4 TB | | Total RAID 5 Hot Spare Space | 3 TB | NA | Stay tuned. I’ll report my experience with this device in the future. Later C Technorati Tags: Hardware, Gadgets 3/17/2010So I mentioned that I’ve taken the plunge into the world of netbooks. I have to say, I really and truly love my Asus Eee PC, if for nothing else, the pure raw battery life it gives me (8 hrs+) is amazing! Of course being an ubergeek when it comes to hardware, I’ve always been quick to jump in and tinker with my iron. I’ve build my own PCs and servers for decades, so it would come as no surprise to anyone when I say I’ve already been looking at how I can soup up my netbook. Of course the first way you soup up hardware is to upgrade the CPU. Since my netbook runs on the Intel Atom 1.6 GHz processor, there probably isn’t much room for improvement there. The next place we look is at memory. My netbook runs Windows XP Home SP3. I thought about dropping Win7 on there, but I had to weigh the advantages against my time for doing that and since I was still on a “trial run” with netbooks, I opted not to spend the time. Maybe in the future some time, but for now, it does what I need it to do, on the go! Anyway, having a 32 bit CPU means memory addressing is limited to just over 3 GB. My netbook came with 1 GB so upping that would certainly help soup it up. I checked and Crucial has a 2 GB module I can upgrade to for $50. Sweet! The next in line for upgrade is of course the hard drive. Now, I’m not dissatisfied with the 160 GB HDD in my netbook at all. Truth is that I wanted to get it with SSD, but the only models available has a mere 16 GB of space and that won’t cut it. I use the netbook for a small amount of very specific, non space intensive tasks and don’t need much storage, but 16 GB just won’t cut it. Enter Kingston with their SSDNow V-Series 40 GB Drive. At $85 and with speeds (170 MB/s read, 40 MB/s write) that improve on the platter HDD, it’s an upgrade I’m ready to make. I’d really want better write performance, but it’ll do since SSD provides awesome stability for on the go usage. Who knows, if it performs well, I might even consider moving to SSD on some of my other computers. Stay tuned… I’ll keep you posted as to how my souped up netbook is performing. Later C Technorati Tags: Hardware, Gadgets
3/6/2010 I have to admit when I first saw the concept of netbooks, I just couldn’t figure why anyone would want one. Of course, at the time, SSD wasn’t really around yet and most importantly, I wasn’t traveling as frequently as I do now. With the coming of SharePoint 2010, I’ve had to consider my options on my old laptop. I had an IBM Thinkpad T-60 which had served me very well. The only problem is that it’s 32 bit CPU won’t run SharePoint 2010 which is coming in all 64 bit format next year. (Yes, yes, I know VMWare can fake it…) So in order to be able to deal with my VMs, I decided to upgrade. I looked at all my options and wanted to get a new laptop that had enough iron to run all my VMs and more. Since the latest Paradox Interactive release, Hearts of Iron III, was coming (I love that game!) and it had a hefty hardware, especially graphics, requirement, I decided to get a total monster laptop that would could handle everything I threw at it. A desktop replacement or luggable to be sure. I didn’t care. I wanted the power. I investigated all the options and even considered buying an Apple Macbook Pro for the job. In the end there were three options I had to decide between. A Dell XPS, an Apple Macbook Pro and an Alienware machine. OK, I admit, the Alienware laptop wasn’t really realistic, but while you’re looking, you may as well dream, right? Of course price always plays into the equation so the Alienware laptop was eliminated right off the bat. I wasn’t really ready to make a switch to Apple hardware because of the premium they put on their name. The same hardware as the Dell, would end up being almost $1,000.00 more expensive! I never quite understood that. Still don’t. Nevertheless, as I was getting ready to order the Dell, it occurred to me to check one more thing. Back in 2002, I ordered a powerful off brand laptop (Sager) from a little company called Powernotebooks.com. Even today it was a decent machine and back then it was top of the line. It had a 2.4 GHz CPU with 1 GB of RAM and 128 MB of dedicated video. It served me very well, only recently dying on me in the form of the power supply finally giving out. I wasn’t sure if Donald Stratton (CEO) and his crew was still in business, but I decided to give it a try. Imagine my delight when I found they were still booming along. I customized a Sager with Intel i7 quad core processor and 6 GB of RAM (capable of holding 12, but again, cost of the top memory was just not justifiable) as well as 1 GB of dedicated video. This monster would do it all! The cost came in almost $1,000.00 cheaper than the XPS from Dell so I took the plunge and bought the monster Sager laptop. Alas, on my travels where I was flying American Airlines (with who I have Platinum status) and was able to get the First Class upgrade, there was plenty of space for my new laptop. Any other time though, the thing was almost bigger than my seat! Of course, if you’ve had the “pleasure” of being seated in any of today’s airline economy seats, then you’d know that really doesn’t take much, but my laptop truly is huge and I’m not able to work on it comfortably in flight. In addition, the monster power comes at a price and that price is battery life. Total battery life is usually around 1.5 hours or so if I’m lucky which makes it even less useful in flight. Right around then was when I decided to look at netbooks. I started at Best Buy and wanted a model with SSD, but the 3 cell battery only offered 3 hours of life which really didn’t seem too good to me either. I wanted a 6 cell battery and eventually ended up ordering a Dell. What a catastrophe that was! After four weeks of delayed shipping notices, I finally gave up waiting on Dell. I checked back with Best Buy who was running a special on the Asus Eee 1005HAB netbook PC. The wine red one was going for $299 right BEFORE Black Friday. (You won’t ever catch me dead at Black Friday ever again!) Of course it came in other colors too, but they were $330. So for the $30 difference, I didn’t care about color and I scooped one up. Right from the get go I was super impressed with the thing. I’ve installed Office 2007 Professional as well as even Visual Studio 2010 Beta 2 and now RC on it and it runs just fine. The only place where it slows down a little bit is if you have multiple browser tabs open and you’re trying to scroll a browser window with lots of rich content on it. Other than that though, I’ve had absolutely no complaints and am ever so happy with it! Of course the battery life is simply awesome! As I’m typing this, we’re headed into Boston after a 1.5 hour flight and my battery is only at 83%! Of course it doesn’t run my Hearts of Iron III game, but it does in fact run my Hearts of Iron II Doomsday – Armageddon expansion game just fine! So needless to say, I’ve taken the plunge and have not been sorry… except maybe that I didn’t take the plunge earlier! Later C Technorati Tags: Hardware, Gadgets 3/4/2010If you’re like me, you have some old computer(s) laying around gathering dust in your basement somewhere. With my move to move mobile platforms, only my servers really remain non-portable. Of course, I often find myself needing to pull some information from a server drive or even the other day, from an old desktop drive. About a year ago, I was moving a desktop to a laptop with Acronis True Image. Of course, the desktop 3.5” drive doesn’t fit in a laptop and I could have gone the traditional way of connecting the laptop 2.5” drive to the desktop and cloning the drive that way, but that means the cloning process would use the old hardware and take longer. Time is precious, so I found another solution. My Apricorn DriveWire has saved the day more than just a few times! It allows me the ability to connect just about any type of drive to my USB 2.0 port on just about any computer. Anything from a 40-pin PATA to a 44-pin PATA to SATA. They’re all supported and at under $40, this one makes a great stocking stuffer for the geek in your life! LOL :-D Later C Technorati Tags: Hardware 11/13/2007
OK, so I'll do a full write up and review of this awesome gadget, but thus far I must say that first impressions just blew me away! Yes, it's expensive, but man, oh man, what an awesome way to make data redundancy, expansion and disaster recovery totally brainless! Stay tuned for my review in a couple of weeks after I've stretched its legs and put it through its paces some more. ;-)
http://www.drobo.com
Later C
Fave it Digg it Reddit Del.icio.us 12/20/2006
In today's world of wireless routers, 802.11g is the new standard, but 802.11n is poised to take over in the near future, if they can ever ratify the standard. J Of course, manufacturers have focused on making router setup really easy. Router security is a whole different ball game all together…
If your house is like mine, you have your high speed internet modem and the main wireless router setup somewhere in the house. For most people, the coverage a standard 802.11g router provides, and their usage model, makes it a very acceptable solution. Of course, I'm not most people… and my needs and setup isn't standard either.
OK, some history first. My main router is setup in my server room in the basement. It worked well at first, at least for most things. See, I'm a Madden gamer and playing Madden with my friends require the fastest possible connection. Because of the fall off in signal strength and quality over distance, I was only getting about a 20 megabit connection with 40% signal strength. As any Madden baller will tell you, that makes for a really jerky and unenjoyable game. So, for a long time I was stuck trekking down to the basement when I wanted to play.
Then I got my Replay TV's. Of course I had to soup up my Replay TV's before using them, but the point just being that I had to find a way to stream my shows between the 2 Replay TV's I had as well as the DVArchive I had running on my data server. At first I tried the wireless route but no matter what I did, I simply could not get the wireless access points to work with the wireless extender which I needed to get a strong signal from the back of the basement to the front of the living room which, of course, are on exact opposite sides of the house. In the end, I returned the extender and access points and went the old fashioned way by running a hard wire CAT6 cable all the way through.
So now I had my DVArchive server in the server room in the back of the basement, my Replay TV in the media room in the front of the basement and my Replay TV in the living room on the main level all connected together. Then it dawned on me… I have a connection (to the Replay TV) right there in the living room where we spend most of our time. If I simply hooked up a wireless router and then connected the Replay TV via hard line to the router, I would have the best signal strength and quality possible, given the 10 feet to the couch.
Of course, it was easier said than done. There were a couple of snags I had to work through first, most notably the fact that Linksys had changed the firmware on the WRT54G wireless routers to a proprietary format, as opposed to the Linux based firmware which allowed users to flash their routers with all kinds of cool firmware updates.
Fortunately, hearing the outcry from the community, Linksys released the WRT54GL which was again Linux based. OK, enough background, let's actually get this thing working by following these steps…
- Our starting point assumes that the first wireless router is already setup on the network.
- Connect the second wireless router to the network.
- Power up the second wireless router.
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On your laptop, go to the Wireless Network List and ensure the new router is picked up in the list.
- The new router should show up as "linksys".
- Select the router and click the "Connect" button.
- You will get a warning dialog window stating that the network is unsecured.
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Click the "Connect Anyway" button.
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Your system should now connect to the router and start pulling an IP address.
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Once your system has successfully acquired an IP address, the status should change to Connected.
- Open a command window.
- Do an ipconfig.
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All things being equal, the router would have assigned you the default IP address of 192.168.1.100.
- Open Internet Explorer.
- Navigate to http://192.168.1.1 which is the IP address of the router itself.
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You will be presented with a logon dialog window.
- The default UserID/Password combo for the Linksys WRT54GL is used to logon.
- Leave the User name field blank.
- Enter "admin" into the Password field.
- Click OK to logon.
- On the /Upgrade.asp page, click the "Administration" menu tab.
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Click the "Firmware Upgrade" sub menu option.
- Click the Browse button to locate your choice of firmware and conduct the upgrade. My preference has been the Tarifa version b009. You can get your firmware of choice from the Linksys Info site.
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Once the firmware upgrade is complete, click Continue to proceed to the next step.
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You will notice in the top right hand corner that the firmware version has been updated.
- Now that we have updated the firmware, it is time to secure the router. Click on the Administration tab again.
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It should default to the Management sub tab, but if not, click the Management sub menu option to navigate to the desired page.
- Start by entering a new Router Password.
- Enter the same password in the Re-Enter to Confirm box.
- For added security, you should not allow the router's admin pages to be accessed over standard HTTP so select the HTTPS check box and ensure that the HTTP check box is unselected.
- Ensure that Wireless Access Web is enabled.
- Ensure that Remote Management is disabled.
- Select Enable for the UPnP option.
- Select Disable for the Telnet option.
- Before you save your changes, remember that you are currently logged into the router via HTTP. Once you save your changes, the router will no longer recognize your session. Save your changes.
- You should end with a Page Cannot be Displayed page.
- Change the URL of the page from http://192.168.1.1 to https://192.168.1.1.
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You will be prompted to logon again.
- The User Name field now becomes "admin".
- Enter the password you used in the Password field and click OK to logon.
-
Because you are now accessing this router via SSL, it will attempt to give you a certificate. You will receive a warning dialog window.
- Click the View Certificate button.
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In order to avoid having to deal with the SSL certificate issue each time you logon to the router, click the Install Certificate button.
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The Certificate Import Wizard will open.
- Click the Next button.
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You will be prompted to select a certificate store.
- This is Greek to most people, so just ensure that the Automatically option is selected.
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Click Next.
- On the final screen, click the Finish button to complete the import.
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You should be presented with a confirmation dialog stating the import succeeded.
- You will be returned back to the logon screen.
- Enter "admin" in the User Name field.
- Enter the password you previously selected in the Password field.
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Click OK to logon.
-
You may now be presented with the following page.
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As you can see, the page did not render properly. The reason for this is because IE treats the same page over SSL as a unique version so you have to reset your security settings in IE again.
- In IE, click the Tools menu option.
- On the dropdown menu that pops up, select the Internet Options item.
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You will be presented with IE's Internet Options dialog window.
- Click on the Security tab at the top.
- Select the Local Intranet icon.
- Click the Sites button.
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You will be presented with the window to add sites.
- If the router URL is not automatically entered into the first edit box, enter the full value of "https://192.168.1.1" into the edit box.
- Click the Add button.
- The site should now be listed in the Web Sites list below.
- Click Close to close the dialog window.
- Click OK to close the Internet Options window.
- Now click the refresh button to reload your router admin page.
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You should now see the normal page loaded successfully.
- You should notice the security zone indicator in the bottom right of the page indicating "Local Intranet".
- The next step in securing your router is to turn on MAC address filtering. The MAC address is a unique serial number that is given to each wireless network card. No two in the world are identical.
- In order to get your MAC address, return to your command window. If you had closed it, open another command window.
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Use the "ipconfig /all" command.
- You will notice some hex numbers for the Physical Address.
- Write down this value.
- Go back to your router admin page.
- Click the Wireless tab.
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Click the Wireless MAC Filter sub tab.
- Select Enabled for the Wireless MAC Filter option.
- Select the Permit Only option. This option will only permit computers with the MAC addresses you specify to access the network.
- Click the Edit MAC Filter List button.
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The Add MAC Address Filter List window will open.
- Enter your MAC address that you had previously written down in one of the open edit boxes.
- NOTE: Replace the "–" characters in the value with ":" characters instead i.e. 13-57-90-AB-CD-EF would be entered as 13:57:90:AB:CD:EF instead.
- Save and close the window.
-
Next we need to configure wireless security. Click on the Wireless Security sub tab under the Security tab.
- Select WPA Personal for the Security Mode field.
- Select TKIP for the WPA Algorithms field.
- Now enter a WPA Shared Key value. This is essentially your password for the wireless network.
- Click the Save Settings button.
- Once you save the settings, you will once again be disconnected from the network.
- Go back to your wireless network list.
- Your router should be listed.
- Select your router and click the Connect button.
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You will be presented with a logon dialog window.
- Enter the value you used for the WPA Shared Key in step 90 into the Network Key edit box.
- Re-enter the same value in the Confirm Network Key edit box.
- Click the Connect button.
- Now that your router is secured, we need to hide it for extra security.
-
Click the Basic Wireless Settings sub tab under the Wireless tab.
- Select a Wireless Network Mode. I prefer G-Only as it forces the fastest connection and will generally not connect me if I'm too far away and the signal is too weak.
- Now the important setting is to change the Wireless Network Name(SSID) value, which defaults to WRT54GL to something that makes sense to you. This is important when you have multiple routers so you can distinguish which router you're logged onto and administering e.g. you might use "ComputerRoom" and "LivingRoom".
- Select the Wireless Channel you wish to use. I would just let it default to the 6-2.437 GHz value.
- Ensure that your Wireless SSID Broadcast option is still set to Enabled. We will need this in order to logon to the new network SSID.
- Save your settings and click OK.
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Because you just changed the SSID of the network, you will now be disconnected from the network again. Go back to your Wireless Network List. Your new SSID should be listed.
- Select your new network and click the Connect button.
- When presented with the logon dialog, use the credentials you used earlier to logon again.
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Click the Basic Wireless Settings sub tab under the Wireless tab.
- Here's the important part, change the Wireless SSID Broadcast setting from Enable to Disable. This is important because it keeps snoops at bay. By already changing the SSID you not only identify your router better, but it also makes it harder for someone to attempt to logo to your network because they have to know your SSID to do so. By turning the SSID broadcast option off, nobody can see your network. That's OK because you've already configured your computer for it. It just keeps war drivers and nosy neighbors from trying to use your network.
- You can leave the other options as is and save your settings.
- Your network will now no longer show up in the available network list of other computers in the vicinity. It will still show up in yours because your computer has been configured to access it.
- Now that we have the router configured, we need to make it work with the original router. The problem using this router at this point is that you can get an IP address, but you cannot get any internet connectivity.
- Click the Setup tab.
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It should default to the Basic Setup sub tab, but if not, just click the Basic Setup sub tab.
- I'm going to assume that your original router does not operate on the default 192.168.1.x range because changing the second and third nodes adds yet another layer of security, this time security through obscurity. Anyway, let's assume the original router has it's IP set to 192.10.10.1. It would be configured to hand out IP addresses starting at 100 i.e. the first computer connecting to it would get 192.10.10.100 as an IP address. That makes the range below 100 safe. If you have configured it to start handing out IP's starting at 2, you need to change it to 3 or more.
- Change the Local IP Address of the second router to 192.10.10.2.
- Ensure that you select the Disable option for the DHCP Server setting. This will allow the second router to serve as the slave to the first router. It will pass your computer's IP request over to the first router who will return an IP which the second router will give your computer. In this way, the second router acts as a relay between your computer and the first router. The advantage to this is that it will relay internet URL requests to the first router which is connected to the outside and will process the request sucessfully.
- Save your settings.
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Comparing these settings with the first router:
- You will notice that that IP is different and that the first router is set as the DHCP Server.
And that's all there is to that. Quite a lengthy walk through, but it covers EVERYTHING! J Anyway, with my new setup I can play Madden at full speed, 54 megabit @ 100% signal strength!
Later C
5/23/2006
OK, so I love my gadgets.  But then again, which techhead doesn't right? Anyway, I was surfing around and came accross what I thought looked like a pretty cool new gadget…
The Linksys CIT200 Skype Phone! Read about it here: http://www.linksys.com/servlet/Satellite?c=L_Promotion_C2&childpagename=US/Layout&cid=1127783201481&pagename=Linksys/Common/VisitorWrapper
Why do I love thee? Let me count the ways...
- A snap to install.
- Works just like a normal cordless phone.
- Sound quality is very good.
- It's easy to use.
- It saves lots of money!
The best part about this little wonder is the fact that it seamlessly integrates with Skype. I used to spend a fortune on calls to South Africa. You know what I mean. There is no way anybody can call their mom and get off the phone in anything under 30 minutes. Even with long distance "special" rates that the phone companies give me, a typical call (which in my case is always more than an hour) would cost me anywhere from $50 on up.
With my little Skype phone I just make sure my account is topped up with about $10 and off I go. A 1 hour and 10 minute call the other day cost me the earth shattering amount of $5!!! SWEET!!!  The other thing that is really great about this phone is the fact that it works just like a normal cordless phone so technology "challenged" users don't even need to know it's using Skype and VoIP and all that techno junk!  No, as far as they are concerned, it's just a phone... a very CHEAP PHONE!
Later C
2/9/2006
OK, I said I was going to chronicle my ReplayTV upgrade adventure turning my 40 hour unit into a 640 hour unit.
The 5504 unit has a 40 GB hard drive and what I'll be doing is adding two 320 GB drives instead.
WHAT WE'LL NEED
- A ReplayTV unit. I bought a 5504 which is the cheapest unit available. Technical specs can be found here: http://www.digitalnetworksna.com/DVR/5500/techspecs.asp
- Two huge hard drives. I decided to go with the WD3200JB from Western Digital. At press time they sold from the WD Store for $135.99. Technical specs can be found here: http://westerndigital/com/en/products/Products.asp?DriveID=117&Language=en
- Hard drive mounting bracket. This MUST be a set top box bracket though. Drive rails won't do. Because the 5500 series only comes with a single drive, there is no bracket to mount the second drive. There is plenty of space for it, but there is no bracket.
- Y power cable splitter. These can be picked up at any computer store. Again, since the current design is for a single drive only, we need a splitter to power the second drive.
- Two connector IDE data cable. If you bought the hard drives "white box" then you'll need to get this cable extra. If you bought them "retail box" then they will come with the cable supplied.
- Phillips head screw driver for opening the cover and mounting the bracket.
- A drill & drill bit for drilling the mounting points for the new bracket.
- Some nuts & bolts to hold the bracket and new drive in place.
THE UPGRADE STEPS
Before we start, I have to point out the following...
WHAT WE ARE ABOUT TO DO WILL VOID THE WARRANTY ON THE REPLAYTV UNIT. ONCE WE OPEN THE COVER, THERE'S NO GOING BACK. IF WE MESS IT UP, WE BASICALLY HAVE A PILE OF ELECTRONIC JUNK.
Also, since we are working with computer and electronic components, be sure to ground yourself before commencing...
Now with that out of the way, here's the play by play of the upgrade... enjoy!
- Setup and activate your ReplayTV unit. The idea is to upgrade a working unit, so you will need to setup your unit following the instructions that shipped with the unit.
- Power down your ReplayTV unit. Allow the system 30 seconds to spin down the hard drive. Ensure you disconnect the unit power cord before proceeding!
- Remove ReplayTV unit cover. The cover has 10 small Phillips head screws that hold the cover in place. There is 3 on each side and 4 on the back. To the top left at the back is the warranty seal and as I pointed out, even though it is very easy to open the cover without actually "breaking" the seal, simply opening the cover, voids the manufacturer's warranty. Once the cover has been removed, you should see a nice clean unit thus:
- Carefully disconnect the IDE on board connector. Be careful not to disconnect any of the connectors to the side which has wire running accross the drive to the front of the unit. The connector is on the green motherboard thus:
- Disonnect the power connector on the PSU thus:
- Disconnect the hard drive power cord and the hard drive IDE connector. The power cord can now be set asside, but the IDE data cable is tightly nestled under the drive mounting bracket, so just let it be for the time being thus:
- Remove the 4 Phillips head screws holding the drive mounting bracket in place. With the cable connectors out of the way, you should now have easy access to all 4 the screws.
- Remove the drive bracket and drive. The bracket is mounted on some extending mounting points so you need to lift the bracket slightly to get it loose from the mounting points. Be sure not to disturb the cables connected and running over the top of the bracket and drive. Once free, gently slide the drive and the IDE data cable out to the side.
- Remove the drive from the drive bracket. The drive is held by 4 Phillips head screws on the sides. Remove them and remove the drive.
- At this point you will need an existing Windows system. In my case I used a Windows XP computer, but a Windows 2000 computer will also work.
- Download the latest version of RTVPatch from Sourceforge. I used version 2.5.3. It can be downloaded here: http://rtvpatch.sourceforge.net
- Shut down the Windows computer.
- Pull the power plug from the back of the computer.
- Open the computer case, taking care to be propperly grounded before proceeding.
- Plug the dual connector IDE data cable into the motherboard's secondary IDE port.
- Plug the primary (on the tip of the cable) data connector into the 40 GB drive from the ReplayTV.
- Plug the secondary (middle of the cable) data connector into the first 320 GB drive. Some people will recommend setting jumpters, but the 40 GB drive already has its jumpers set for Master while the 320 GB drive by default has its jumper set to Cable Select (CS). These settings should work just fine, but in case it does not, set the 320 GB drive's jumper to Slave.
- Plug power connectors to both hard drives.
- Connect the power cable to the back of the computer.
- Boot up the computer.
- Ensure the BIOS detects the drives correctly. The ReplayTV drive should detect as Secondary Master at 40 GB and the new drive as Secondary Slave at 320 GB thus:
- Locate the copy of RTVPatch you downloaded previously and run it. Windows XP will give you some warning, but just confirm and start the application.
- Ensure RTVPatch identifies the drives correctly. Once RTVPatch starts up, it should identify three drives in the system. If you have more drives, more will be listed and identified, but the key is that your computer's boot (and any other Windows drives in the system) should be listed as "May be PC Disk". The ReplayTV drive should be listed in the Status column as "ReplayTV 4xxx/5xxx Disk".
- Change the Photo partition size. If you don't wish to change the size, just keep the No change option.
- Set the source. Select the ReplayTV drive in the DriveID column and click the Set button to set the Source drive value.
- Set the target. Select the new drive in the DriveID column and click the Set button to set the Target drive value. Upon completion, the values should be set thus:
- Backup the source by clicking the Backup Source Drive button. RTVPatch will give you a File Save As dialog window allowing you to choose the location of the backup file. The file will be saved with a .rtv file extension and should be around 500 MB in size.
- Copy the drive by clicking the Copy System Partition button. RTVPatch will copy the drive. This process may take some time to complete. RTVPatch will popup a warning dialog. If the drives are not indicated correctly on this dialog, do NOT click the Yes button thus:
- Once the copy process completes, RTVPatch should show the 320 GB drive as a ReplayTV disk by both the icon in the DriveID column and the value in the Status column showing a value of "ReplayTV 4xxx/5xxx Disk" thus:
- Patch the target drive to make it bootable by clicking the Patch Target Drive button. RTVPatch will give you a warning. Simply click the Yes button thus:
- Next RTVPatch will ask you if you wish to preserve your shows. Since we started with an empty unit, just click the No button thus:
- Next RTVPatch will ask you if you wish to preserve your photos. Again, since the unit is empty, you can just clikc the No button thus:
- End the RTVPatch session by clicking the Exit button.
- Shut down your computer, allowing 30 seconds for drive spin down and ensuring propper grounding as per usual.
- Swap drives and repeat. Remove the 320 GB drive and replace it with the second 320 GB drive. Now repeat the process to duplicate the second drive as well. The step of backing up the source drive should be skipped. Also skip the steps to PATCH the second drive. We do not want the second drive to be bootable so it will not be patched!
- When you click the Exit button after duplication is complete, RTVPatch will ask you if you wish to apply the patch. Simply click the No button. This is IMPORTANT! DO NOT APPLY THE PATCH TO THE SECOND DRIVE!!!
- Shut down your computer again allowing 30 seconds for spin down and using propper grounding.
- Swap the 40 GB hard drive out for the first 320 GB hard drive.
- Start your computer and startup RTVPatch again. The system should correctly identify two ReplayTV disks in the system, each at 320 GB.
- Check the Dual-drive system radio button thus:
- RTVPatch will give you a warning that it is about to create a two drive system. Click the Yes button thus:
- Once the patch has been applied, shut down your compter.
- Remove the two drives, close your computer as before and we're ready to install the drive set into the ReplayTV unit. Ensure that you know which drive is the boot drive! I did this by mounting the drive that the boot patch was applied to on the original 40 GB drive's bracket.
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